Menus plaisirs - Les Troisgros

Die Dokumentarfilme von Frederick Wiseman besitzen keinen Kommentar, keine Interviews und keine über das Gezeigte hinausgehenden Informationen. Ihre Form erhalten die Filme in einem aufwändigen Montageprozess. So auch MENUS PLAISIRS – LES TROISGROS, in dem Wiseman das von der gleichnamigen Familie geführte französische Restaurant „Troisgros“ porträtiert, das seit mehreren Jahrzehnten mit drei Michelin-Sternen ausgezeichnet ist. Die Länge des Films von vier Stunden macht dabei hinlänglich erfahrbar, welcher Aufwand an Überlegung, Zeit, Personal und Können bei dieser Art der Gastronomie vonnöten ist. Es geht um jedes Detail – und um viele scharfe Messer. (Lars Penning)

Living legend Frederick Wiseman turns his X-ray vision on a Michelin-laureled restaurant in the French countryside—a delectable change of pace from his studies of American institutions in the public trust. A multi-generational endeavour, La Maison Troisgros in Roanne offers a rich setting for Wiseman’s discerning look at the swirl of systems and ideas that comprise life in action: how are dishes and disciplines developed and transmitted? How does a restaurant truly function, outside of the sizzle-reel stylings purveyed by cooking shows? And what can be gleaned about French society and class today from both the restaurateurs and their clients (who stay at lodgings on site)? These questions arise but are of course not posed explicitly, as Wiseman maintains his characteristic position of a silently attentive observer, especially keen on capturing the subtle give-and-take—and the polite adjustments—among co-workers and with customers. Having already turned his attention to France several times before—where he’s crafted other colourful cultural portraits, from LA DANSE, LE BALLET DE L’OPÉRA DE PARIS to CRAZY HORSE—our greatest living documentarian brings a palpable open-heartedness toward his latest subject. (Nicolas Rapold)

Frederick Wiseman: TITICUT FOLLIES (1967), HIGH SCHOOL (1968), JUVENILE COURT (1973), PRIMATE (1974), WELFARE (1975), MEAT (1976), RACETRACK (1986), MISSILE (1988), CENTRAL PARK (1989), HIGH SCHOOL II (1994), ZOO (1994), BALLET (1995), PUBLIC HOUSING (1997), BELFAST, MAINE (1999), DOMESTIC VIOLENCE (2001), DOMESTIC VIOLENCE 2 (2002), STATE LEGISLATURE (2007), LA DANSE (2009), BOXING GYM (2010), CRAZY HORSE (2011), AT BERKELEY (2013), NATIONAL GALLERY (2014), IN JACKSON HEIGHTS (2015), EX LIBRIS: THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY (2017), MONROVIA, INDIANA (2018), CITY HALL (2020), UN COUPLE (2022)